
We’re on a mission for spacecakes. A brownie, cooked with that wonderful substance that’s nice and legal in the Netherlands (sorry, mom, when in Rome?).
Andrea, a friend of mine from high school now living in Germany, and I decided to take a trip to Rotterdam, a city in the Netherlands with the second largest port in the world (next to Shanghai).
The streets are bustling with music, the sounds of people pouring out onto patios and the stares of men that burn holes in your back when you walk by. It feels sexy and aggressive.
Rotterdam’s a weird place. Very spread out, with a mix of industrial buildings and picturesque cobble stone streets. Ruth’s experience there was going to a party in a converted warehouse. The guidebook says there’s clubs in converted grain silos and pharmacies. This is fusion people.
During the day we took a water taxi from the port to Hotel New York, a beautiful hotel on the city’s waterfront. The history of the sight is it was the former headquarters of Holland-Amerika Lijn, an organization for Europeans in the late 17thto mid 18th century that ran boats out of Rotterdam’s for people emigrating to New York. The building was sold in 1984, but remained empty for ten years before the hotel was built.
Andrea and I walked inside the hotel, where posh looking Dutch people and foreigners read the New Yorker at big wooden tables while sipping beer, before settling on some chairs by the water. Then we walked over a bridge back to the city centre to find a hostel.
After going for dinner (and getting containers at a nearby icecream shop to package leftovers, a concept Europeans don’t understand) we were ready for dessert of the space variety.
The guy at the front desk of our hostel showed us where we could get spacecakes on the map after telling me I didn’t have to whisper the word because “that stuff is legal here.”
We missioned to the other end of Rotterdam, passing many “coffee shops” along the way where they sell truffles (magic mushrooms) and weed. When we got the intersection, we couldn’t find the place, the name of which the hostel man neglected to give us.
We stared around confusedly, looking for the place we imagined in our minds: a quaint diner with our waitress serving us brownies on a silver platter with a knowingwink. Apparently, this didn’t exist.
A man pointed us in the direction of a place called Reefer, two to three streets up. It was hard to miss, with the word lit up in yellow lights flickering like they could go out at any moment.
Inside were a couple men behind a smoky bar, and more men behind a door in another room with pool tables.
“Space cakes?” we asked innocently to one of the men behind the bar.
“No,” laughed the man. “We don’t sell space cakes, they’re illegal.”
He explained to us that when pot is in food, it falls under different laws because it isn’t considered a smoking product.
After a 40 minute walk, and the anticipation of being high, we hesitantly decided to settle for a joint. The guy brought out different sized baggies and we asked if there was anything pre-rolled.
He brought out a joint long as my hand and the thickness of two fingers at one end.
“Two?” he asked.
Andrea and I could only laugh.
“One’s fine,” I said.
We walked out of the shop with our fatty and set out to find a picturesque spot to smoke it. A carload of guys pulled up and mockingly asked us if we knew where to get pot, said something we couldn’t understand, and laughed at Andrea when she took their question sincerely.
This was only the beginning of harassment from men via car. In Rotterdam, a common passtime for men is piling in a car, cruising the streets, and yelling at girls from the window or following them menacingly with your eyes.
Our tactic was to ignore, but that was made hard when a guy jumped out of his car to get our attention by chasing us.
“Are there no girls in this fucking city?” yelled Andrea. “What the fuck is going on?”
I know why they call it RotterSLAM. Every guy wants to get SLAMMED.
Inside the bars people were fine. Apparently guys prefer yelling from their cars than over a drink. This was fine by me, and after smoking our joint in a park, Andrea and I found a cute spot called Hemingway’s, filled with regulars listening to some guy wailing a radiohead cover. It was preferable to the street.
On our way home, we were again followed for three streets by a car full of guys who went as far as to reverse and block us when we tried to cross the street to avoid them. As we dashed into our hostel they made a sharp u-turn and just missed my leg.
Maybe it’s better we never found those space cakes. Walking the streets of Rotterslam is a trip in itself.